Author | Christiane Nickel | Fashion Editor
Photography by Allison Specketer
Last Sunday Night, in honor of its 5 Year Anniversary, DapperQ and co-producer Whitney Day showcased a New York Fashion Week event that goes unparalleled. Of the many queer-related events I’ve attended in my life this counts as an unforgettable moment that truly fosters the progress and innovations of GLBTQI culture and families within the realm of fashion. Brimming with a utopic sense of community whilst providing a platform for designers like VEEA, Angie Chuang and Bindle & Keep, the emotional vivacity I felt here could top any Olympic event held in Russia. Emcee and comedian Murray Hill aptly remarked “this is like a home game tonight.” Elaborating on the sheer amount of queer diversity, Hill describes “Back in my day you only had butch and femme, now it’s like being in a Baskin Robbins!”
For me at least the innate subversion, reclaiming and celebrating started with the space. Upon entering one is confronted with endless portrait paintings, tufted leather couches, and dark brooding lighting – all indicative of a masculine grandeur. And in a night that celebrates a cornucopia of masculine/ androgynous styles designed for the queer community, this brooding space is nothing but queer, sexy and subversive. Hailed as mayor Bloomberg’s favorite DJ who has tirelessly worked to become one of New York’s most celebrated artists, Whitney Day created one covetable compendium of house, hip-hop, and top 40 while DJ Poison Ivy created a smashing mix of dancey beats with a sultry undertone.
In an effort to fully represent all facets of the queer communities’ rich and refined tableau of styles, co-host Anita Dolce Vita (Dapper Q) showcased seven different designers as well as featuring other brands as lifestyle models. Below is a breakdown of some looks not to be missed.
Proud arbiter of prep style and mastermind behind the blog Qwear, Sonny Oram modeled a salmon striped button-down from Wildfang, noting some interesting details like the tromp l’oeil chest pocket and the generous cut along the torso to allow for enough space in the hips. In addition to this Sonny wore a tie from Ambiance Couture Bowtie, with a toile de jouy pattern (French for linen, this is a mid 18th century print often utilized as a home textile. With a monochromatic color scheme toile de jouys depict images of an idyllic English countryside) as well as khakis from Topman, Sonny’s number one sponsor.
Jag & Co.
With their progressive stance on transgressing pattern (specifically in menswear), another notable look this evening was from the company Jag & Co. Mixing colorful foulards for sleek suspenders and paneled vests with baroque-inspired textiles, the Jag look is all about taking risks in terms of textiles and texture. Inspired by vintage menswear ‘laced’ with hip hop, the designer firmly believes that since the GLBTQ community has been a tireless symbol of innovating change, why be conventional in our choices for the classic suit?
As an unabashed fan of Futurism, I was excited to see Angie Chuang’s debut collection. One of my personal favorites included her shimmery wine drip crotch trousers worn with a sleek graphite snake embossed vest. Chuang’s vision was clearly fueled by a high contemporary aesthetic, referencing designers like Rick Owens, Haider Ackerman and Alexander McQueen. Inspired by the Teddy Boys, a rebellious post WWII youth culture, the designer creative titled her collection “Teddy Girls and Bois.” She created a uniquely urbane androgyny that was powerful, virile, and provided the perfect contrast to some of this evening’s more dapper aesthetics.
Charlie Boy
With their optically alluring pattern mash-ups of sleek button downs, Australian-based brand Charlie Boy added a sophisticated array of graphic nuances for the more casually inclined. Offering a wide array of styles for the everyday into the evening, Charlie Boy displayed a unique blend that showcased their seasoned abilities for tailoring to and for tomboy and androgynous styles.
BKLYN Dry Goods
Inspired by American-made heritage brands and striving for a thoughtfully executed menswear collection of vintage, BKLYN Dry Goods was one show not to be missed. Their seamlessly styled mix of sturdy denim jackets worn with classic red plaid button downs and streamlined leather jackets was emblematic of ‘50s Americana work wear, but with a queer edge.
VEEA
Featured on Buzzfeed and AfterEllen, NYC-based brand VEEA offered a clean-lined contemporary appeal. Precision cut graphite and black paneled trousers created subtle graphic contrasts to their sleek outerwear and classic minimal lines. For VEEA it was clear that the devil is in the details with their patterned linings and ever so subtly color blocked collars.
Accessories
Boasting an endless accoutrement of timeless statement bowties, Ambiance Couture Bowtie provided a nice dapper note to some of the many looks featured tonight. From their cheeky historical twist on the toile de jouy (modeled by Sonny Oram) to their classic denim version with studded accents and their signature double chain-link trim, it’s no wonder they were a unanimous favorite.
Other Lifestyle Brands
D.C. based brand Label Me Not (LMN) are a women’s jeans company that carry a hybrid of high-end selvage denim designed with a masculine style for a female body. Notable details like a 4 1/2” fly zip instead of a 6” as well as the “My Boo” half pocket in the back designed for a significant other to place their hand inside are signature additions to LMN jeans. Retailing at $189, which is the same you would pay for your average pair of designer jeans, LMN denim is a quality long lasting all season essential prerogative for the masculine presenting.
