Thanks to Barneys’ Brothers, Sisters, and Daughters Campaign, there has been a surge in exploration and celebration of what is means to be transgender. Unlike many other fashion editorials that run the male gaze gamut of appropriating queer or queer presenting individuals in hyper eroticized positions, themes, and story lines, this editorial has an innate lightness and beauty to it that expresses the vibrancy of the human condition. The Center’s Executive Director, Glennda Testone, felt through their conjoined effort and Barneys’ open, all inclusive approach, this has been one of the most successful campaigns she has ever witnessed, showing transgendered individuals in a positive light. Shot by Bruce Weber, the editorial features models Ahya Taylor, Maxie Neue, Dezhorn Gauthier, Valentijn and Ryley Rubin Pogensky. In order to gain some insight, I had the exciting opportunity to speak to Ryley about the campaign and his thoughts about this campaign….
What are some of your thoughts in general about this campaign?
I really cannot think of another campaign that was done of this level that is in support of the trans community. Barney’s partnered with National Center for Transgender Equality (NCTE) and the LGBT Community Center and is donating proceeds of all sales on a specific day to both. All the recent media coverage of trans people I feel has left a bad taste in my mouth. Cis society doesn’t know how to talk about or interview trans* people. It’s embarrassing and frustrating. Hopefully more campaigns like this will take shape, and people will start seeing transgender and gender variant people as just that – people.
My friend, who works at Ford, told me that she had just run across a casting that she felt I would be perfect for. We took some Polaroids and poof. I went through the casting and all of a sudden I had landed it. I was super skeptical of the campaign; I was scared that it would be exploitive or fetishized. All of my walls were up. But when I sat with Barneys heads and they explained what they hoped the campaign would accomplish I was blown away. These people really truly fucking care.
What was the process like?
Being on set for a week is a lot. The days were long as hell. But everyone got along so well, we would just sit and talk for hours about our stories, our families, coming out etc. It was like a queer therapy intensive. Sometimes I would have to go for walks around the building and relax, all those hormones in one room man, there were so many tears. I met some amazing people, and am so happy to say that we all still talk every fucking day. Bruce Weber is amazing and all of the shoots were super interesting. He does have a crew of like 15 people, add that to all of the hair, makeup, and Barneys creative and you had like 50 people staring at you while you’re posing. It’s intimidating as hell. It was also freezing so the outside shots were obviously the least fun, but it all was just such an amazing experience. It’s hard to complain when you’re doing something you believe in for people who believe in you.
Compared to other LGBTQ campaigns how does this differ?
I think the main difference between this and other LGBTQ campaigns was the scale. This was big budget. This is a scale that I have never worked for before. With one of the most famous photographers alive.
This campaign has people talking. People are saying the word transgender. They are learning what the word cis means. Their perceptions of gender and beauty are being challenged. They are reading the very personal stories of 17 people who are bearing their souls. Trans people so often have to live in secret and in fear. We are not privileged. The media basically controls this country; and right now trans people are all over media, being portrayed in a positive light. This isn’t a murder, this isn’t a hate crime, and this is a positive thing. That is so important. Hate is one thing, but ignorance is different. Sometimes people do really just need to be informed. Hopefully this will reach those people.
I hope that this campaign reaches trans and queer kids. Or anyone for that matter that is dealing with transitioning or coming out. I want them to see that there are people just like them, that this world is slowly changing. To never ever give up hope, and to realize that there are so many of us, that are willing to talk, to reach out. Like seriously email me. You have support. You have a family.
When did you start modeling?
I started modeling about a year ago. Up until that point I wasn’t sure how I wanted to society to see me – gender wise. It took a while for me to be totally comfortable in my skin and understand what my gender was and how I was most happy presenting. I needed that strength before I could face people in the fashion world who would be critiquing EVERYTHING about me. This campaign is huge. It will open so many doors for so many people; because people are talking. People that would not ever be having conversations about trans people are going to now. Society can’t ignore this, nor should they.
As a transgendered model, who are some of your mentors?
Who are some of my mentors – seriously other people in the queer community? There is so much diversity, there are so many acceptances, and families have been made for those who were ostracized by their blood relatives. My grandparents who shot the campaign with me are definitely serious mentors of mine. They have supported me through so much, not batting an eyelash at their black, queer, trans grandchild. They are simply amazing and irreplaceable. I’m not much of a celebrity person but as of recently I have been loving Carmen Carrera and Laverne Cox. I have always loved the hell out of Ellen. Seriously you have a gay woman who is in the homes of straight cis people EVERYDAY. That is serious. Favorite models: Tyra Banks’ Instagram is everything. Casey Legler is super sweet and a fucking babe. We met at Mr. Transman and she was so amazing and really interested in the campaign. I wasn’t sure how I felt about Elliot Sailors when she broke into male modeling. I felt like a model was trying to hold on to her career and was using androgyny as a vehicle, but after hearing her thoughts on gender and how she has always perceived herself I let go of my initial judgments. Other than that basically everyone I see at any given moment on the L train. Brooklyn – you are gorgeous.
So (I have to ask this) who are some of your favorite style icons?
My style icon is difficult. A lot of what fuels my love of fashion is remembering the person that I used to be. Remembering all of those years I wore skirts and dresses and outfits that I hated because I thought I had to. The attention from men, their gaze and gawking, those feelings fuel how I present now. They also directly taught me how to treat women and how to be a feminist. I see how society treats me now as a male, and I remember how society treated me as woman. That said I am in love with Pharell (you can also email me sir) though his Elmer Fudd hat at the Grammys was a hot mess. I love women’s fashion – mainly shoes -not on myself but to admire the fuck out of. For me I love the dapper. I am a product of New Jersey, and was a mosh pit kid. I had snake bites and a Mohawk for longer than I would care to admit. So that style definitely shines through: beanies and skinny jeans.
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