Author | Marina Dojchinov
Photography by Cedric Sims
Newbie to the fashion scene and with a show that both excited and terrified us, HeteroPhobia opened Mercedes Benz fashion week with a bang. Literally. Hailing from Finland, designer Antti Asplund is no stranger to controversy. Beginning his design career with a small collection in Helsinki Pride Week, Asplund prides himself on bridging the gap between homophobia and acceptance, with the strong aesthetic and the slogan ‘no fear of the different we are all equal’.
His statement monochromatic pieces were perfectly paired with checkered facial coverings, reminding us of our childhood fears of scarecrows and evil clowns. With head to toe coverings, the theatrical element was offset with elements that celebrated the human form. “The collection speaks out for the equality of people regardless of attributes, appearances or opinions and takes a stance on supporting equal marriage everywhere” Asplund says.
Asplund’s creations use a lot of sheer fabrics such as mesh t-shirts paired with custom underwear. Most pieces carried the slogan ‘free riot’, a bold and confronting statement protesting the incarceration of punk band Pussy Riot.
The female group, made up of 11 members were arrested in 2012 for a staged protest in a church with the intent to change Russia’s harsh laws on homophobia. Members of the group were sentenced to 2 years imprisonment, a decision that caused huge controversy through the western world. Supporters such as Lady Gaga, Bjork and Paul McCartney have since spoken of their support, with Asplund now joining in on the debate.
The models flew down the runway with accessories that highlighted the cause, alternating between bright flowers, dark backpacks and big aviator goggles. The effect was a transformation of what we have come to associate as typical fashion, and transcends the boundaries of reality, politics and with a dreamy element of social change.
We haven’t seen this kind of dedicated passion since Vivienne Westwoods 1970’s politically infused line with the emblem ‘SEX’, which saw a push away from conformity and catapulted fashion into a new direction. Her line, shaped the punk scene, became a beacon for gay rights. Asplund does the same with this collection. His words echo through loud and clear “Let’s not be afraid of the different, we are all the same,” he says with an air of confidence,” Join the revolution now!”
Check more of his designs here.
