Clothes act as a second layer of skin – regardless of whether or not we are trying to make a statement on any given day, what we wear always speaks volumes about our identity. When considering iconic garments that have historically dictated many important identities, I find that the simple suit has held a more notable and complex history of sartorial language than perhaps any other garment. Think about it. Aside from being the absolute signifier of masculine elegance and timeless style, what else would investment bankers and CEOs wear to look powerful and important other than a suit? Certainly not a draped asymmetrical number by Anne Demulemeester (who recently announced is stepping down as creative director of her own line).
Similarly, where would women’s workplace liberation in the 80’s be without the YSL power suit for women? Finally (and perhaps most importantly) what would any of us ‘LGBTQ’s’ wear to our weddings – that is, if we aren’t getting married on a beach somewhere wearing matching linen tunics? Since the 80’s, the suit has been transformed into the poster item of androgynous ready-to-wear and has thus become a staple in many a queer closet. However, getting the right fit has proven itself a struggle for the queer, female body.
Looking back to my article on Androgyny, the queer-oriented shirt company in San Francisco, many of the problems queer women face with gender-normative shirt construction – menswear is too boxy, womenswear is too tight and feminine – they also face when it comes to suiting. Of course, you can go to a tailor, but why should you have to spend more money on top of an already steep investment? You shouldn’t. Our solution? Call Kipper Clothiers.
Established in 2012, Kipper Clothiers, also based in San Francisco (another disappointment for those of us on the East Coast) is a custom suiting company dedicated to understanding and fitting queer bodies. Founders Kyle Moshrefi and Erin Berg were tired of seeing “friends waste time and money on suits that were poorly crafted or only alluded to a good fit” said Kyle. “We have one goal: We’re committed to producing high-quality, well-fitting suits and shirts, that are delivered on time.” The process starts with hundreds of options – fabrics, cuts, collars, lapels, cuffs, colors and even buttons. Then, 30 different head to toe body measurements ensure that their expert venders create a garment that is perfectly tailored to every clients individual body.
Starting at $736 for suits and $125 for shirts, a suit from Kipper Clothiers is definitely an investment. However, consider the fact that you could spend that much on half a pair of custom suit pants at Dolce and Gabanna. Also consider what you are investing in – quality of service, material, and total customization. Kipper clothiers is sure to make a suit that not only acts like a second layer of skin, but feels like one too.
Since the New York consumer (and consequently the rest of America) was introduced to fine Italian suiting in 1923 by way of Barney Pressman’s suiting store, Barneys, the suit has become the multifaceted backbone of the elegant, American wardrobe. Yet through the plethora of social, economic, gendered implications suits may have, all of them have one thing in common – when a suit fits, you feel like a million bucks. What more could you ask for?
Please visit their website for additional information.
Related article: Studio Visit With VEER NYC, A Soon-to-Launch Androgynous Fashion Company
