Author | Gayaneh Davoodian
If you were to mix two parts snowboarder, one part construction worker, one part kayaker, 3 parts brooding artist, and two parts dreamer, you may get a glimpse into the enigma that is Logan Neitzel. These nine parts are evident in his and Fay Stoor’s (his co-creator) new project IXLVS. “People need to know the Collection has nine lives. There’s a countdown aspect. We’re dropping product when and how we want. The goal is to make every piece feel special- not just another product on a shelf.” It’s an innovative approach that’ll shatter the product lifespan cycle we’ve all come to accept in the fashion industry.
Aside from this, Mr. Neitzel has a higher-end Mainline Collection. It’s everything you didn’t know you wanted it to be- powerful, brooding, streamlined and unprecedented. Every piece attests to his acute sense of craftsmanship and artistry.
I was lucky enough to sit down with him one Friday afternoon to discuss his vision. Here’s a snapshot of our conversation:
EXT. GRITTY NYC ROOFTOP IN GARMENT DISTRICT
The sky is gray. GAYANEH sits on a bench perpendicular to where LOGAN sits. She takes out her laptop and begins the interview. Faint HONKING can be heard in the background.
GAYANEH
Okay so first question, what is your process like? Creating, Imagining…etc…
LOGAN
Honestly, a lot of it depends on visuals I get from dreams and just letting my mind wander while I’m working. I usually keep a notepad near my bed or am always scribbling ideas as they come to me. If it’s for the mainline collection I’ll start with the mood or color scheme… It’s never like one photograph or piece of art inspires this collection. It’s more like I come up with an idea of a character, the mood and the energy of the character and work from there.
GAYANEH
So what kind of character do you envision wearing your creations?
LOGAN
Aesthetically speaking its obviously the darker type of person is wearing it. All the collections are a piece of me. I’m more of an introvert- I’m the kind of person that would rather walk down an alley than a sidewalk. It’s always a brooding and strong individual. Kind of like a lone wolf.
GAYANEH
What has been the highlight of your career so far?
LOGAN
(laughs) um, shit,
GAYANEH
Or like top two if it’s easier…
LOGAN
Yeah I mean seeing my name for the first time in a magazine listed next to Dior Haute Couture was pretty daunting. It was for i-D magazine a few years back. Patti Wilson styled the look and Guinevere Van Seenus was the model. It was a leather and aluminum medicinal brace I made specifically for Patti.
Also being at the Grammy’s this past year- I made pieces for Trent Reznor’s performance that night. I’ve been a huge fan of Nine Inch Nails for years. I also made a custom suit for Ben Haggerty aka Macklemore and Ryan Lewis. But it wasn’t just that. Sitting next to Metallica warming up their voices and having Madonna and Paul McCartney next to you was a surreal experience.
GAYANEH
I bet. What has been the lowest point of your career?
LOGAN
(Laughs) whoa, the highs and lows
GAYANEH
Ha, Yeah we’re cover all the bases here.
LOGAN
That’s hard but I’d have to say the lowest part has been discovering how political the industry can be.
It’s a constant battle of creating and still being able to sell, stay inspired, and maintain an individual voice.
I love making things with my hands. If I can do that, I stay pretty happy.
That’s why I’m considering just opening a shop somewhere- work in the back and just allow people to wander in and see what’s happening.
GAYANEH
Make it a real personalized experience.
LOGAN
Exactly.
GAYANEH
How do you see your vision developing in the future?
LOGAN
The mainline collection size will shrink a bit, I want to focus on what I really like making.
There’s always an industrial element in what I create- I guess this comes from my past. I spent some time as a construction worker so I’ve always loved the craftsmanship of working with my hands.
The elements show up in my garments. I grew up in Idaho so there’s always this sense of building things for wear and to last a very long time.
GAYANEH
It’s pretty refreshing to hear of a designer that’s more interested in making a quality product than anything else. What is your personal style? Does it differ from the garments you make?
LOGAN
No, it’s not that different from my own personal style. If I weren’t behind everything I create or if I wouldn’t wear it then I wouldn’t make it. Even in the woman’s line- I would wear it if I were female. It’s pretty tomboy.
The newest mainline collection is the most representative of future direction. It’s a play on basics but my way. Previous collections were more experimental. I’m always figuring out different processes and techniques to incorporate.
GAYANEH
Who are your major muses?
LOGAN
I always have a hard time with this question- I don’t really have one person that sticks in my head, but Hedi Slimane is definitely inspiring to me. He has such a clear vision in all aspects of what he does whether it is design, photography, art, or the way he lives his life.
GAYANEH
If money were no object, how would you envision your fashion show/presentation?
LOGAN
Um, (laughs) so many options… but I think I would want to remove the aspect of “who” is in the audience.
I’ve always wanted to set up a conveyor-type rigging that would carry my models and garments suspended in mid air. I could take it anywhere- like in the middle of Iceland or in some dirty warehouse in Berlin. Technology has changed everything about having a show and the relevance to actually be sitting there in the crowd.
GAYANEH
What would be the soundtrack to your latest mainline collection?
LOGAN
The music is always a big part of working so long and hard on a collection. For this one I think I was listening mostly to 2Pac, Salem, Death Grips, NIN, and oOoOO.
GAYANEH
How did the concept of IXLVS get started?
LOGAN
IXLVS as a name refers to the way the strategy of the brand was built. The series of product will count down from Series 009 to the brand’s demise ending with Series 001. People have been confused sometimes looking at IXLVS and not realizing it stands for “Nine lives”.
This aspect is really important for us to have people realize. In the end every piece from each series is special and a limited collector item.
We all know that the fashion industry is changing- in the way retail and brands are run, so we are doing something different.
GAYANEH
How does IXLVS differ from the Collection line?
LOGAN
Mainline and IXLVS are separate entities.
IXLVS has more of an accessible price point and is meant to survive and be sold mostly through our online shop and a handful of partnered boutiques. We did it this way so that we can keep the quality super high without charging at a premium price point. We are focused on collaborations, throwing events, and bringing people together to celebrate art, music, and culture.
The mainline is a much more specific customer. It’s someone looking to invest in a piece that’s been handmade and potentially tailored directly for them.
GAYANEH
In IXLVS’s mission statement, you mention this idea of mixing and matching. What would be an ideal example of mixing and matching?
LOGAN
I mean for series 009, I’d like to give the jersey to Kurt Cobain and see how he’d wear it? Probably with some plaid, ripped jeans, and Chuck Taylor’s. I think that’s the thing about IXLVS is we don’t want to tell somebody how to wear it- we want to see how he or she would interpret it.
GAYANEH
Also in the mission statement, it’s stated that “IXLVS chooses to follow its own agenda, not restrained by the normal fashion formula with season and gender branched collections.” Could you elaborate on that? How do you deal with gender in your design concept?
LOGAN
IXLVS is meant to be unisex and individualistic. We never want to be like this is a men’s piece or this is a woman’s piece. Rules really don’t apply in today’s fashion, at least here in NYC.
GAYANEH
Now I have series of fun questions I stole from “Inside the Actor’s Studio.” What’s your favorite word?
LOGAN
Um…I say “um” a lot.
GAYANEH
Um? (laughs) that’s a great response actually. What is your least favorite word?
LOGAN
Depends on who’s mouth it’s coming out of…
GAYANEH
What turns you on?
LOGAN
Confidence
GAYANEH
What turns you off?
LOGAN
Arrogance…there is a difference.
GAYANEH
There is a difference. Most people don’t realize. What sound do you love?
LOGAN
The sound of a cold beer opening…
And
Sharp tailor scissors cutting through canvas.
GAYANEH
What sound do you hate?
LOGAN
Horns… and the honking outside my studio.
(perfectly timed honk chimes in)
GAYANEH
What is your favorite curse word?
LOGAN
Fucker?
GAYANEH
What profession other than yours would you like to attempt?
LOGAN
Industrial Designer
GAYANEH
What profession would you not like to do?
LOGAN
Garbage man in NYC or any sort of customer service desk job
GAYANEH
If heaven exists, what would you like to hear God say when you arrive at the pearly gates?
LOGAN
I’m not religious so maybe “guess you were wrong all along”.
FADE OUT.
THE END
