For her ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2014 collection—which was presented Friday night at the onset of NYC Fashion Week—fashion designer Charlotte Ronson was inspired by the children’s book story ‘Little Lord Fauntleroy’. Set in mid-1880s New York City, ‘Little Lord Fauntleroy’ is an English children’s novel about a young American boy who discovers that he is now a lord and heir to a vast estate in England. Referred to as “the Harry Potter of its time”, the novel seems reminiscent of an Aesop fable infused with the Victorian elements of a Dickens novel. For this season, Ronson wanted to interpret the garb of that time; particularly the classic Fauntleroy suit that became a popular trend for boys in America and England. It traditionally consisted of a velvet cut-away jacket and matching knee pants worn with a fancy blouse, adorned with either a large lace or ruffled collar. Indeed, Ronson’s F/W 2014 collection is a modern take on the children’s story, showcasing richly tailored pieces, plush velvet, and poppy prints that are perfect for autumn.
When I asked Ronson how she would describe the aesthetics of her current collection, she replied with “handsome femininity”. I thought that was a great response, because it perfectly captures that dual contrast present in every one of those twenty pieces—as evidenced by the accenting of richly tailored separates such as black-on-black leather rose embroidery alongside elaborate lace, ruffles, sheer chiffon, or mesh inserts. By pairing patterns and fabrics that complimented and juxtaposed one another, Ronson created an interesting balance in every ensemble. Take for example the feminine florals and soft poppy patterns of a dress accented with black lace or mesh, the deep velvet collars permeating her black jackets and blouses, the whimsically detailed paisley prints paired with black leather, or the sexily cut pantsuits that still maintain a slight boyish charm. Even the outfits featuring a more simple and classic black design contained a pop of floral through a backpack, or a sexy cutaway of mesh fabric.
Through the years, Charlotte Ronson has become known for presenting dynamic and cohesive collections, and this season was no exception. Her aesthetic consistency is a reflection of Ronson’s vision and evolving brand, so I decided to inquire about the particular ambiance she wanted to create for this collection: “I noticed your prevalent use of lush fabrics, color contrasts, and embroidered prints such as black lace. What mood did you want to create with these patterns and pairings?” “Well this season I wanted to tell the story of a cryptic and cute woman compelled by mystery and darkness. My protagonist-muse is creative, smart and spooky; so I wanted this reflection to be soft with darker tones of allure. That’s why many of my pieces use a lot of black fabrics; it’s such a timeless and classic color. Plus it allows me to produce that romanticism, but with an edge.”
There is no doubt that Ronson clearly has a knack for using textured fabrics and bold designs, arranging them in ensembles that are eclectic, contemporary and diverse, yet unified as a whole. She understands the luxurious artistry of fashion and the female form, and I admittedly found myself oogling over several pieces this season. However, this collection made me wish that she took greater risks and pushed the envelope a bit more—steering away from the commercial and venturing more into the realm of avant-garde and androgyny. After all, the book originally inspired a trend in boys’ suits; so it would’ve been nice to see more of those masculine influences come across in garments that equally embodied both ends of the gender spectrum. Even the hair and make-up, as fresh and cleanly simple as it was, could have benefited from being slightly more dramatic. In our present day culture of fashion, it seems that the bar is always being raised in terms of provocative innovation—so it does take a bit more than leather overall shorts to produce that desired effect of artistic grandeur. Overall, this was no doubt a gorgeous collection, yet I can’t help but wonder how stellar it could’ve been had Ronson played it less safe.
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