Rae Angelo Tutera is an advocate and partner at Bindle & Keep, a bespoke men and womenswear company based out of New York City. After navigating the traditional custom menswear landscape as a non-binary customer, Rae felt there was a unique need for a queer/trans-identified tailor. In 2012, Rae asked the owner, Daniel Friedman, for an apprenticeship and they forged a partnership to provide accessible and affirming tailoring services to clients of all genders. In 2016, this collaboration was featured in an HBO documentary called Suited that shares six of those clients’ experiences — not just as clients but as gender non-conforming people in our culture.
Rae Tutera | Photo by Ryan Bevans
How would you describe your personal style?
I generally wear a uniform that consists of neutrals. I admit when I’m prompted to talk about my style, I worry that my look and therefore my commentary on it might be underwhelming. That said, the uniform I wear these days feels the most like “me” to myself that I’ve felt as an adult, and that feeling is the real essence of style. I was going to call my style “masculine neutrals,” but neutral neutrals might be accurate too. I feel like my fade and my tattoos communicate my style as much as my garments do. Folks may not realize this, but I don’t wear suits often. When I do wear them, my impression is that they’re the most beautiful looks I’ve got.
“we all deserve to experience authentic and dignity, not just in our self-expression, but in all facets out our lives.”
What is your role at Bindle & Keep, and how do you personally seek to elevate the LGBTQIA+ communities through style?
I work with clients who come in to have custom suits made. I help them as they choose fabrics and design their garments, and I take measurements. When I had my first suit made back in 2010, I worked with a tailor who I had to convince to make me what he considered to be a men’s suit. I felt like I did a lot of emotional labor translating myself to him. That experience informs my work, even eight years later, because it’s so important to listen to every client. I always say listening is an act of solidarity. I see my role as holding space for our clients and making garments that are mindful of their experiences, their bodies, and their identities, as well as their feelings about all of those things. My clients and I talk about binding and top surgery, fat shaming, internalized homophobia and passing and a variety of things that wouldn’t be considered or openly discussed in other retail settings. I hope that holding this space for clients allows them to experience authenticity and dignity, and I hope the attention my work receives reminds our community that we all deserve to experience authentic and dignity, not just in our self-expression, but in all facets out our lives.
Rae Tutera | Photo by Ryan Bevans
Where do you find inspiration for your style? How has your style evolved over time?
I was raised by my grandparents — my grandfather passed away several years ago and my grandmother passed away recently. Now that they’re both gone, I spend a lot of time meditating on them and how their presences as well as their absences shape me. I’ve found myself leaning into my Italian-Americanness lately — wearing a gold signet ring on my pinky, and two gold chains, both inherited from family. I never used to accessorize but because I have developed such a neutral uniform, I appreciate jewelry more than ever before.
Rae Tutera | Photo by Ryan Bevans
What are some of your favorite stores and brands?
I generally shop at places like Buffalo Exchange and Beacon’s Closet. I find second-hand landscapes a little more user-friendly because there are so many brands (and therefore sizing standard and styles) that it makes me feel more hopeful that I’ll find something that feels like me (and even fits me too, to some degree) than when I go into a single brand’s store. I end up with brands I never would’ve known might fit my body or taste. I only buy new shoes and underwear, otherwise my clothes are second-hand.
Rae Tutera | Photo by Ryan Bevans
What do you normally recommend to queer and trans people, especially masculine-of-center folks, who struggle to find clothing that fits them properly?
I used to feel like I was trespassing in the men’s sections of stores (which is how I came up with the meditation “you have the right to be handsome”), and then after my self-expression became more masculine, I started to feel not like I was trespassing in women’s sections per se, but I didn’t feel comfortable either. The binary landscapes of our stores and our culture can be discouraging, but I think it’s important to remember we all have the right to be here and we all have to wear clothes every day, so we all also have the right to browse and try things on — of course, within reason, because I know sometimes it doesn’t feel safe. I know people identify with the idea that they’re “in between sizes” because sizing is so limited, and I assume people feel like they’re “in between” genders, too, or perhaps just outside of them, which is why I now encourage people to look at everything. Recently I bought a Carhartt jacket, and as silly as it may sound, I got it from the women’s section. It hadn’t occurred to me to look there until recently. I’ve experienced shame for being 5’4″ in the men’s section and in the women’s section in stores, and it’s always a pacifier to know tailoring can be done. Sleeves can be shortened. Whatever you try on, remember that if it doesn’t feel good or feel proportional, it isn’t your body’s fault. I try to remind folks to be gentle with themselves.
Rae Tutera | Photo by Ryan Bevans
What do you do for fun?
I like to read and I like to boulder. Since it’s summer, I spend as much time as possible on the queer beach at Riis.
Lastly, what’s something most people do not know about you?
I think most people don’t know I have a Master’s in Library Science and worked in libraries and archives for seven years in my 20s. I once did a survey of all the archival collections at NYU and got to go hang out in the stacks with David Wojnarowizc’s taxidermied alligator. That was cool.
Sun Sign: Aries
Moon Sign: Pisces
Rising Sign: Scorpio
Pronoun: Rae/they/she
Follow Rae on Instagram: @raeangelotutera
Editorial Credits
Producer: Winter Mendelson
Photography: Ryan Bevans
Senior Photo Director: Asher Torres
Creative Director: Morgan T Stuart
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