Interview with Derek Guillemette of fashion label Inter-pret.us
Inter-pret.us is a NYC-based brand that offers high quality genderfluid unisex clothing self-described as “relaxed urban modernism.” In our interview below, fashion designer Derek Guillemette discusses the desire for unisex clothing as not just a trend, but as a growing movement.
“I feel just as uncomfortable wearing a dress as I do army boots and camouflage pants: neither are “me.” I thought other people may feel this way too, so I started designing a collection around gender fluid pieces.”
Tell us a bit about your background and how you got into the fashion industry.
I grew up in a rural, small town in New Hampshire, so was not exactly surrounded by fashion. However, my mom always encouraged me to wear what I wanted – she never picked out my clothes. Looking at pictures of myself from when I was as young as 3 I can see that everything was color coordinated – there was definitely a fashion seed that had been planted, and it would just take a little while to really develop. I was obsessed with my sister’s Barbie dolls, and would always make new outfits for my Hee-man action figures. I once traded 3 of my favorite Hee-men for my best friend’s Tee-la, a female Hee-man, and from that day on Tee-la was the first couture-wearing action figure. As I grew up I became more interested in video games and cars and my fashion fascination sort of went into hibernation.
Near the end of my senior year at Boston University (I majored in Economics) I received a job offer to work at Bloomingdale’s in the buying office. I was the assistant buyer for Women’s Designer, every girl’s dream job. My passion for fashion suddenly re-emerged. My boss had been a buyer since the 70’s, so it was basically a contemporary fashion history course in addition to a job. I learned everything about fit and designer fabrics. To further my expertise I actually took some design classes at FIT which I highly recommend to anyone wanting to work in Fashion in any way, shape or form. It always helps to speak the same language as a fashion designer. I stayed at Bloomingdale’s until I was also a designer buyer (brought in new resources like Prabal Gurung and Neil Barrett), and in 2009 met two Harvard Business School graduates with a concept called Rent the Runway. I decided to leave Bloomingdale’s and launch the company with them. I did all of the buying and merchandising – it was the perfect stepping stone to starting INTER-PRET.us, which would happen five years later.
When conceptualizing a new piece, what is the most important aspect to you?
The most important aspect is that I know the wearer will have a moment when they put it on. There has to be some magic, something different about it that would make someone say “I can’t not buy this!” It helps that the collection is unisex, so I can actually wear the piece and share the feeling. I often wear samples casually around town to see what people think of them before formally presenting to buyers or press. Sometimes I receive great feedback that helps me take the piece to another level.
In your opinion, what is the significance of the new trend in androgynous and/or unisex fashion? Can that really exist?
I think it’s incredibly significant, and it’s more than a trend, it’s a movement. It’s a societal statement that gender is not binary and it’s unique for every individual. It’s ok to express whoever it is that you want to be, and we are now making clothes that are gender fluid as a result of this belief. Personally, I’ve never felt comfortable in clothes that scream a distinct gender. I feel just as uncomfortable wearing a dress as I do army boots and camouflage pants: neither are “me.” I thought other people may feel this way too, so I started designing a collection around gender fluid pieces. Turns out this design concept also creates inherently versatile garments, so there is a lot of value. Everything translates to multiple styles and wardrobes, which I think is really cool.
How do you describe the style and feel of your brand?
I have three words – Relaxed Urban Modernism, which is all about finding balance – between the technical and the organic, excess and release, masculine and feminine. Proportions, drape, and fabric feel – they all revolve around the concept of balance. I can definitely say I always obsess over details to get it “just right,” but at the same time I want the clothes to look easy to wear. I never want my clothes to intimidate someone, and when you put them on, they should make you feel like an enhanced version of yourself.
How do you infuse technology and fashion? Do you think that is where the industry is headed?
I launched the brand digitally via a website, and the web domain is also the brand name so from the very start the brand has been infused with technology. I have strong feelings about the web as an excellent commerce and discovery platform. Other than that we also use a lot of cutting edge fabrics created by genius textile engineers in Japan. They just keep creating these incredibly soft fabrics that drape and feel better than cashmere or silk, but you can clean them in a home washing machine. They’re all so beautiful. I’m a total fabric junkie. In the future I’m open to getting involved with things like 3D printing, hologram fashion shows – who knows. I love science fiction so I always want INTER-PRET.us to have a techy feel.
Have you done any recent collaborations that excited you?
We have some really cool things coming up, but all I can say is that one of them revolves around accessories.
What’s next? Any activity for Fall NYFW?
We’re working on a pop up and more direct to consumer trunk shows this fall. Trunk shows have been really successful for us thus far. I love being able to see who my customer is and show them all the special details in each piece. They love the customization aspect, like choosing a different color or having something monogrammed. They’re kind of like the Tupperware parties of the future. Gay men and women love to eat, drink and shop together so it’s fun to do it in the privacy of someone’s’ home. It gives the customer total VIP treatment. We make special clothes for special people.
For more information visit inter-pret.us.
Instagram: @inter-pret.us
