Author | Christiane Nickel | Fashion Editor
Photography by Marie Tomanova
Thursday night’s annual fashion week benefit hosted by The Set NYC proved to be a roaring success. In its second year, this charitable benefit was dedicated to Love146.org’s focus on ending child trafficking. This year’s designers included Lucina Lu, Autumn (most notable for her work in Rihanna’s Styled to Rock), Kristina Costa, and Kevin Shahroozi. From the ethereal to the eccentric, The Set NYC featured a breadth and depth of various aesthetic styles.
Below is a brief rundown of some of the designers featured for your viewing pleasure.
Lucina Alu
With her dazzling pattern play of polka dots and gingham, Lu’s elegantly tailored creations are emblematic of her high octane femininity. High waisted trousers finished with a banded trim along the edge were some of the softer looks in the overall sculpturally severe collection. Lu’s draping could be best described as lyrical, embodying a kind of musical rhythm while also incorporating functional elements. The designer sites the Tang dynasty as the source for her inspiration, an era that has often been overlooked for fostering many cultural vestiges of Chinese dress as well as the Japanese Kimono. By using cotton and natural fibers, Lu sought to reflect the textile culture of that era.
Kristina Costa
Kristina Costa’s work took on a more performative role in her collection “Underbelly.” At first glance, I thought it to be a post-Renaissance steam punk love affair. However , the collection was more inspired by the idea of “being poor and needing to be resourceful,” and making the best out of your situation. Many pieces included patchwork with various strips of fabric to create voluminous silhouettes. One fascinating aspect of her collection was the designer’s integration of knitwear seen in pieces like a sculpted knit sweater or scarf.
Autumn Lin Kietponglert
With her signature zipper-laden vests, collars, and dresses, Autumn Lin Kietponglert’s hyper futuristic collection was one of my personal favorites. Featured on Rihanna’s Styled To Rock, the designer’s architectural silhouettes were mesmerizing. Infinite rows of zippers skated across many silhouettes, reminding me of aerial views of highways at night, or Saturn’s endless rings. Akin to much of her interests, this collection focused on a view of the future such as her fascination with the black hole. For inspiration Kietponglert will often watch movies like The Fifth Element and Blade Runner or listen to recordings of Stephen Hawking. Yet, in spite of the ever-present theme of using zippers, the beauty of her work is found in her restrained and delicate draping. A starburst of midnight sequins seemed like they were vibrating as the model walked down the runway, while a loosely draped back propelled an undulating movement.
